Rogdia (or Rodia) - Crete  

The place - Rogdia

Twenty minutes drive (or a most infrequent 30 minute bus ride) from Heraklion is the easily reached gem-of-a-village. Rogdia (or Rodia) has character, great views of the mountains, the sea across to Dia Island and a panoramic view of Heraklion. It also has a restored Venetian villa next to the tiny and ancient church, five Kafeneia and a café/restaurant, tavernas both in the village and on the way up the winding road you take to get there.
Mainly, Rogdia has a feeling of the lived-in village - and it is. There are several interesting older houses and buildings especially walking up the narrow passageway-roads above the main street.
If you have little time to get out of Heraklion – Rogdia is close and under any circumstances worth a visit.
 

How to get there - Rogdia

By car: From Heraklion, take the new national road heading west (towards Chania). Rogdia is signposted to the right, just before the big power station. Follow the signs. The road is quite winding and of course, a little potholed,  and offers distractingly beautiful views as you climb up to the village.
The bus option: From Heraklion: on weekdays there are buses at about 07.00, 12.00 and 14.30 to Rogdia (no buses on the weekend). It takes about 30 minutes and the bus turns right back (...at 07.30, 12.30 and 15.00). Don't forget that is always a good idea to call and check the bus times. Bus station B (Hanioporta) tel: 2810-255 965
From Rethymno: see bus schedules.
Taxi: Taxi should cost around 10-13 euros (ask how much before you get in). Radio taxi tel: 2810-210 102, 210 146.
 

Where to stay - Rogdia

Not many will choose to stay in Rogdia because there are not many places to stay! The choices are Thea Hotel, which has about 4 apartments available, all with wonderful views and tastefully decorated (in rustic) - the rest are rented year round. Ask if Room 4 is available, otherwise we recommend Room 7. Price category: H4
Villa Rena ( a suite of four basic rooms and kitchen - with a view terrace and garden that is paradise! The rooms can be rented together or individually) 
Tel.: 2810-312 974 or 6946-284 054, ask for Rena. Price category: H4.
(Phones: see Calling Crete)
 

What to see/do - Rogdia

The view, the old houses and Venetian villa and the small church in front of it. The cemetery is very fine and has the best of many great views.
Enjoy the tavernas in Rogdia and on the road up to it. Chat over an "Elliniko" (Greek Coffee) in the Kafeneia and again admire the sweeping panoramas.
Visit the Savvathiania Monastery (a convent), which is a further ten minutes drive (or 6 km walk for the brave) higher up the mountain and has splendid gardens, Byzantine murals in its churches and paradise-like views. A sense of calm goes without saying.
Walk (45 minutes) down the dust road to Palekastro and sip a beer or eat at one of the two tavernas at the beach and surf-edge, beneath the National Road but also sided by the old wall of a Roman Fortress.
Drive along the acceptably unsurfaced road to Achlada - in 7km you can see a village that almost makes Rogdia look modern! Many buildings and houses are empty, but the village is inhabited and two Kafeneia-tavernas sit virtually opposite each other in the central walkway, good coffee, raki and tasty mezedes ready for you! Also if you drive to the end of the upper village beneath the large church there is a Kafeneio with fine view terrace and for winter, a fireplace inside. Drive on to Fodele where there is a museum devoted to El Greco, which is arguably also the house El Greco lived in. The place has a pleasing air, a stream, tavernas (we like the one on the other side of the bridge in the centre of the village, with a large ourdoor terrace on the edge of the stream), and gift shops selling quite a selection of lace and embroidery (salesmanship is alive here!). Also if you go down to Fodele Beach, go to Plaitis - friendly, good food and reasonable prices. We have truly enjoyed the fish served here  - open year round - with the option of sitting at tables "on" the beach when things are warm! Mention seeing this at CreteTravel.com,  you will surely be offered a complimentary Raki (the local drink) after your meal, a regular gesture of hospitality in Crete.

Where to eat & drink - Rogdia

Cafe Rodea is on the road up to Rogdia - the only one on the left well before you reach the village (it's opposite a taverna and has no easily visible sign).
Up the steps to this wonderful place - we like the coffees and we love the view. Sit at the last table on the terrace, facing Heraklion, and you could imagine sailing in to the city!
To Alonaki,  also on the road up to Rogdia, on the right hand side. Eat good local food at decent prices inside or on the terrace with a superb view across Heraklion, expect to pay in the D price category,  per person for a good meal. Tel: 2810 -841 422. Next to the taverna is a small winding road which takes you back to the National road, passing the flower-filled church and study centre of Agia Fotini.
At the beginning of the village itself on the right again, is "Remvi" with a great view, a smaller place with a fireplace.Tel:2810-841 441. Price category: D
The newest eatery is Ouzerie Kegos at the far end of the village, good fresh mezedes with a drink or a cup of coffee, great views - - again! 2810-841 393. Price category:E/D.
Cafe Bar Lambrakis - we must warn you against. Severe price gouging that is almost laughable. Let the signs and international flags outside alert you (these seem to have been removed). Price category: Absurd.
 

Special Comments - Rogdia

Well, really everything about Rogdia is special. Don't forget to breath deeply - the herbs and flowers that grow everywhere make the air deliciously fragrant. Be prepared - you might be  tempted to buy land and build here! Just have a look at the view!....
 

Photo album - Rogdia

To see more of Rogdia, click here to go to its photo album.
 

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Simple map - Rogdia

We have drawn  a simple map of Rogdia, to give a better idea of where things are. See Rogdia simple map.