Anogia (or Anoyia) - Crete

The place - Anogia

Now we're getting into Crete's mountains, 740 metres up on the north face of Mount Psiloritis to be precise. It's a short hop from here to the stunning Nida Plateau and the Ideon cave (mythology: Zeus grew up here). Birthplace of the famous Greek singer Nikos Xylouris, Anogia has a history that is powerful and tragic - burned by the Turks, then by the Germans who during the war, as reprisal for kidnapping a German general called Krieppe, rounded up and shot all the men they could find in the village.
Stockbreeding is the source of wealth in this area. The village has two aspects. Old Anogia is the lower part, reached after you pass the inviting square filled with Kafeneia on the right hand side (as you approach from Heraklion) and continue as the road curves left and downhill. The air is mountain-fresh, the local Raki and food genuinely good and usually made with local ingredients. If lamb is to your liking, the savoury aroma of it cooking at the tavernas in the lower part of the village, is tempting indeed. The square of Agios Georgios is a splendid exhibition of local life and a good place to stop for coffee, buy local cheese and visit the small church of the same name.
 

How to get there - Anogia

From Heraklion - the easiest and swiftest route - the drive is wonderful, winding mountain roads, passing through some interesting villages including Tilissos, giving you the chance to have an archaeologist's feast in seeing the site there and similar at Sklavokambos (look out for the Minoan villa on the left at Sklavokambos). Allow an hour or just over for the drive, more of course if you stop to admire the sights or enjoy the sites on the way! Head out of Heraklion on the New National road towards Rethymno and Chania, and take the turn to the Old national road and "Gazi" & "Anogia" (alternatively take 62 Martyrs out of Heraklion and carry on following the road, this will take you through Gazi on the Old National Road), after about 4 km you will see Anogia signposted left. It is then, to be astonishingly accurate, 22.8 Kilometres of winding, scenic road - best taken at a relaxed pace - to the beginning of Anogia. At this point a left turn will take you to the Nida Plateau, ski area and the Ideon Cave. The observatory for which you turn left before the plateau, is normally open one day a month, however it is not until you reach the left turn for the observatory that these dates are posted. There are regular buses to Anogia from Heraklion from bus station B (tel: 2810-255965)at Hanioporta (see Heraklion map).
There are also buses to Anogia from Rethymno.
 

Where to stay - Anogia

There are many Domatia (rooms for rent) - see the simple map.
Off the main street, a right turn as you see the large statue when entering Anogia or you can walk to it from Agios Georgios, past the church, is Hotel Aristea - Room 1 definitely has a great view and the place looks clean and friendly. Tel: 28340-31459. Price category: H5/H4 (see below price categories).
Opposite the square is Arkadi and the two similarly named Crete rooms are a few doors uphill. There is no truly de luxe accommodation in Anogia yet, but there are several pleasant and functional rooms - just ask to see a room before you decide. Let us know your impressions if you like. Prices mostly in our H5 range.
One other option is Mixalis rooms at Sisarcha, 4 km before Anogia. It looks tidy and also offers food. Tel: 28340-31696. (Phones: see Calling Crete)
Or, another option is to stay at nearby Axos village (8 km), at the nicer Yakinthos Hotel. Studios and apartments at H4 to H2 price range. Review, photos, rates & reservations with CreteTravel.com.
 

What to see/do - Anogia

Recommended: enjoy a Greek coffee at the square in the upper village (Agios Georgios square), the atmosphere here is wonderful - hospitality and welcomes are surprising in their warmth. Excellent local cheese and Raki are available to buy, at the shop on one corner of the square. You are more likely to see men wearing the Cretan baggy trousers tucked into their boots, heads decorated with nets, here than just about anywhere else. This is miles from "designer name" mecca. The small church of Agios Georgios is worth a visit if it is open.
On the main road, a little before the square, visit the Folk Art museum.
Wander the streets from the top to the bottom of the village, see the woven tablecloths and linens (with much salesmanship from the old ladies). In the lower part, where the Plateia Syntagmatos Kafeneio is and the statue of Vasilis Skoulas, the tavernas to the right with succulent lamb and other foods cooking outside in open barbecue-ovens; follow the sign behind the statue to see the original wood carvings and paintings of Alkiviadis Skoulas ("Grillios"), his son who is reasonably senior himself will show you the gallery (if he is not there - ask at the Kafeneio and they'll summon him to show it to you) at the Museum Grillios. Original wood carvings with much use of the natural shape of branches, and an appealing naive painting style in pictures of Eleftherios Venizelos and more.
Have a look at Nikos Xylouris's house right on this square - Anogia is also famous for it's musical tradition.
Venture from here to the awe-inspiring and enormous plateau, the Nida Plateau and visit the Ideon caves. The journey is truly scenic and takes you through sparkling rock and mountainscapes. There is a taverna at the plateau - what you really want to do is just walk, wander and take in this "out of Africa-like" panorama. (In winter skiing would be a possibility on the way up to the plateau - there is a ski "area", but it has not been operating for years).
This is a splendid place for walking, hiking, caving and energetic cycling - a good base too [E4 hiking path goes through Anogia].
The archaeological sites within easy reach abound, Tilissos, Sklavokambos and Anogia's own treasures (of course many finds are stored or displayed at the Archaeological museum in Heraklion).
At Zoniana, a nearby village, you can check out the new wax museum.
 

Where to eat & drink - Anogia

There are some places where it is hard to choose one eating location over another - so far we cannot say we've decided on our favourites. Let appetite, the aromas of cooking and the feeling of the moment be your guide - you are unlikely to be disappointed. Food is important, a big feature of life, everywhere in Greece and much so here in Crete. In Anogia food is good. Again, let us know your favourites and tell us what you liked so we can pass the information on to other visitors...
 

Special Comments - Anogia

To appreciate Anogia, give it some time, walk, stop for coffee or drink, eat and allow any kindness or generosity that might be offered you, to quench the thirst for offering hospitality that is a hallmark of Crete and has its source it often seems, in Anogia.
If you can make the time, we would suggest at least an overnight stay to enjoy the "events" of different times of day and to give ample chance to visit the extraordinary special places nearby. This is also an appealing place - it feels good to just well, be here for a while - we think you'll easily see what we mean when you get to the mountains of Psiloritis.
 

Photo album - Anogia

To see more of Anogia, click here to go to its photo album.
 

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Simple map - Anogia

We have drawn  a simple map of Anogia, to give a better idea of where things are. See Anogia simple map.
 

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